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8x12 bathroom layout1/4/2024 ![]() When setting the sidewall tiles, start at the outside edge and work toward the corner. Work Outside In on Sidewalls of Shower Remodel After setting the cut pieces, I use a level again to check alignment. I always wipe them with a rag to remove any moisture. If cut tiles are wet from the saw, the thinset will not bond as well. As with the first full course, I use spacers where needed to bring the tile into alignment. I measure from both sides to the centerline to make sure this tile is properly aligned because it sets the pattern for all of the courses above.Īgain, I level across the second row to keep the horizontal joints consistent. To make the running bond or brick pattern, the second course is offset by a half-tile width. I wait until I have dimensions for several courses, then cut them all at once. I’m going to have cuts in every course, but I like to install as much tile as I can before making a trip to the saw. With -inch grout lines, I will cut the tile ¼ inch shorter than the measurement. Because shower walls are frequently out of plumb, I always measure cuts at both the bottom and the top. Measure Twice, Cut Tiles Onceīoth ends of the first course need cut pieces. I use shims as needed to bring the tops of the tiles perfectly snug with the level. This is also one place where shims come in handy. This first row of tiles is critical because if these tiles are crooked, the whole wall will end up crooked. Check for LevelĮven though this first row of tile is laid on a level ledger screwed to the wall, I double-check with a level. I adjust as needed by tapping the tile or resetting a tile after adding mortar. This is especially important with larger tiles in a running bond pattern because irregularities in tile thickness or bulges or depressions in the wall can skew the corners and create a lip at the joints. With the first course set except for the cut pieces at the corners, I use a 4-foot level to check that the tile is flat and in plane. With tile that is more uniform, I can use ⅛-inch or even 1/16-inch joints. The -inch grout joints allow for some irregularity in the edges of the porcelain tile. More important, with some tile, the dimensions vary, so using spacers will lead to crooked grout joints. Spacing the tiles by eye is faster and, after many years of setting tile, I’m pretty good at it. I’m spacing these tiles an inch apart, but I don’t like to use spacers. ![]() After all the wall tile mortar has cured, I will remove the ledger, set the floor tile, then fill in the course of cut tiles at the shower pan. I start with the first full course, which I set on a temporary ledger that I’ve leveled and fastened around all three walls. I begin on the long wall, applying tile from the centerline outward toward the corners. This keeps the work area neat and clean, and also reduces the amount of mortar that works into the joints, which makes grouting easier. Rather than spread thinset on the wall, I prefer to butter thinset onto the back of every tile with a ¼-inch notched trowel. When exposed to water, mastic simply turns to liquid, which can cause the tile to crack and eventually fall off the wall. In showers and wet areas, I always use latex-modified thinset mortar, not mastic to tile a shower wall. This results in nearly equal 6-inch-wide courses at the ceiling and shower pan. To ensure they would be symmetrical, I sized and located them in advance so that the picture-frame trim tile at the top and bottom will fall on the horizontal joints between full wall tiles. In this case, I also had to consider two niches. By cutting the top course of tile on all three walls, I can keep the joint width consistent all the way around. I avoid using a full piece at the top because the ceiling is usually not perfectly level. ![]() ![]() The goal is to maximize the size of tiles at the bottom and top, avoiding narrow pieces. I always plan the layout to make sure the tile is centered and symmetrical. The next step is to set the 8x12-inch porcelain wall tile in a running bond or brick pattern so that it looks good and stays put. In this shower wall tile installation, I’ve protected against leaks by substituting DensShield for drywall, and using a liquid membrane to waterproof the floor, all seams at corners and niches, and all fasteners. Tile showers should not only be leakproof, they should look good.
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